Muristek
Give the green light to early summer berries and savoury tarts
While I wait impatiently for the red and blackcurrants to appear in quantity and at a reasonable price, I make the traditional juice-saturated summer puddings with gooseberries instead. The first of our short-season summer fruits, their exceptional tartness is welcome, but can be softened with a little honey and a splash of elderflower cordial. My inclination is to serve them particular version with a jug of cream – in fact I would call it essential. Gooseberries, whether in a pie or a crumble, beg for cream rather than more piquant crème fraîche or yoghurt – which is why they make such a blissful fool.
The colour of such desserts, fools, ice-cream and this version of summer pudding is soft, reminiscent of a midsummer afternoon spent in the shade of the spreading canopy of a tree. You can lift this with a sprinkling of mint sugar, which will provide not only a splash of green but also a touch more sweetness for those who need it. I bring the pudding to the table with a jug of warm gooseberry juice sweetened with honey and one of cream, too.
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