Muristek
From the increasingly adventurous and reasonably priced Blind Spot range to chardonnay from Tasmania
Blind Spot Dolcetto, Adelaide Hills, Australia 2020 (£11.50, The Wine Society) I’ve been a big fan of the Blind Spot range of Australian wines since it emerged a decade ago. The project is a collaboration between one of Australia’s best winemakers, Mac Forbes, and one of the UK’s best wine retailers, the Wine Society. Forbes made his name with a range of exceptionally elegant wines from various small plots in the Yarra Valley. For the Blind Spot range, the Wine Society turned to Forbes to act on its behalf as what the Burgundians call a négociant: sourcing interesting wine from producers all over Australia which the Society would then bottle under the Blind Spot label and sell at reasonable prices. The latest vintage of the Dolcetto is a delicious tribute to their methods: a plum-tangy take on the Piemonte grape grown in the Adelaide Hills.
Aldi The Voyage Australian Durif, Victoria, Australia 2020 (£8.99, Aldi) The rest of the quartet of new Blind Spot releases takes things a step further with Forbes sourcing grapes and making the wines himself. Together, they make for a revealing snapshot of current trends. There’s a wonderfully fragrant Syrah (£12.95) from the fashionable Grampians region of western Victoria in the modern Australian idiom; a red so light it’s almost a rosé in its crisp acidity and sappy strawberry, made from Pinot Meunier (£12.95); and a genteel white take on northern Italy’s soave, made from Garganega (£11.50). The latter pair are examples of Australia’s growing confidence with lesser-known varieties, a development you can also trace in a recent addition at Aldi, in the shape of the inky and succulent red made from the unheralded durif.
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