Muristek
The designer Isabel Marant stepped out to greet the audience at the end of her fashion show wearing a sweater with the colours of the Ukrainian flag. ― AFP pic
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MILAN, March 9 ― Criticised just a few days ago for its inaction in the face of the Russian invasion of Ukraine, the fashion and luxury industry finally started taking a stand at the height of Paris Fashion Week. More than 10 days after the conflict began, announcements of store closures on Russian soil are coming thick and fast, as well as donations and other initiatives in support of the people of Ukraine.
On the night of February 23 to 24, 2022, while the fashion sphere was resting after a day spent running between Milan's fashion shows in stilettos, the Russian army began its offensive in Ukraine on Vladimir Putin's orders. And the two worlds couldn't have seemed further apart. On the one hand, were the beginnings of what some see as World War III, while on the other hand, there was the glamour and excitement of Fashion Week, during which designers and major luxury houses show off their creativity with grandiose shows boasting spectacular scenery and five-star guests.
With a few exceptions ― including Giorgio Armani, who removed the music from his show in support of Ukraine three days after the conflict began ― the fashion and luxury industry didn't really make its voice heard on the issue. Even right in the middle of Fashion Week. While there was never any question of cancelling this week dedicated to new collections ― as life continues as best it can ― some criticised the absence of any standpoint from the industry ― one of the world's most powerful ― unlike other sectors which rallied from the outset.
A flurry of action
Much was written at the close of Milan Fashion Week, about the sector's “timid positioning” and “discretion”... The industry's lack of mobilisation spurred reaction on social networks as in the specialized press. Still, the fact remains that if the industry did not react in the wake of the Russian invasion, it has gradually started putting in place measures to not only distance itself from Russia but also to support the Ukrainian people.
As soon as the Paris Fashion Week kicked off, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode released a statement on the subject, reminding everyone of the context in which this very special fashion week was taking place. “As the greater fashion family gathers for Paris Fashion Week, war has brutally hit Europe and plunged the Ukrainian people into fear and upheaval. ... The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode encourages you to experience the shows of the coming days with solemnity, and in reflection of these dark hours,” read the statement, issued February 28.
But without a doubt it's Vogue Ukraine that, since March 1, has helped show the way to an entire industry. In a post on its Instagram account, the magazine called for an embargo on exports of fashion and luxury goods to Russia, tagging some of its partners and major players in the industry, including LVMH, Kering, Hermès, Prada, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. And this cry for help appears to have been heard, provoking a string of announcements,
Store closures, raising funds
While many luxury groups and fashion houses have gradually suspended their commercial activities in Russia and shut down their stores ― including Hermès, LVMH, Kering, Prada and Chanel ― others have chosen to provide financial support and launch appeals for donations to help children and adults who are victims of the Russian invasion. Balenciaga, Balmain, Jacquemus, and Louis Vuitton, are among the labels that have been working on such initiatives.
Just before showcasing his new collection for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing posted a picture in the colours of Ukraine on his Instagram account, topped by a heart, and accompanied by an evocative message: “As we show our collection, we are well aware that there are more important things happening in the world today . Our thoughts and prayers are with the Ukrainians. We are inspired by their dignity, resilience and devotion to freedom. In order to feel a little less helpless, I have donated to the Emergency Ukraine fund at UNHCR.
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For its part, the Balenciaga fashion house, helmed by the Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, has multiplied its initiatives to support Ukraine. The designer, who was himself forced to flee his country in the early 1990s, made the choice to delete all the house's Instagram posts, putting only an image of the Ukrainian flag, and sharing his decision to relay only news related to the war. But he did not stop there. During the Balenciaga fashion show, where guests discovered T-shirts in the colours of Ukraine on each of the seats, the designer recited a poem in Ukrainian. This text was accompanied by a letter placed on each guest's seat and shared on social networks.
“The war in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my home country, and I became a forever refugee. Forever, because that's something that stays in you. The fear, the desperation, the realization that no-one wants you,” reads the heartbreaking and committed text that also serves to highlight that fact that fashion is about more than folklore and glamour.
The Georgian designer ended this letter by specifying the reasons that had encouraged him to maintain this show. “Because, in a time like this, Fashion Week feels like some kind of an absurdity. I thought for a moment about cancelling the show . But then I realised that cancelling this show would mean giving in, surrendering to the evil that has already hurt me so much for almost 30 years,” he said.
Note that blue and yellow ― the colours of the Ukrainian flag ― were everywhere at Paris Fashion Week, on and off the catwalk. Influencers, fashion icons, models and designers, like Isabel Marant, stepped out in clothes highlighting these two colours to show their support for the Ukrainian people. ― ETX Studio