Muristek
From slippery smooth ‘wat dan hor’ noodles to succulent ‘yim gok gai’, Tapai Tang is an unsung gourmand’s paradise in JB
Tapai Tang’s 'wat dan hor' (rice noodles in egg gravy) is stellar. — Pictures by CK Lim
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JOHOR BARU, April 2 — Every strand of flat rice noodle is sleekly slippery. Glistening, really, with a lush yolk-ribboned gravy. There are fresh leafy greens, some succulent slices of pork and prawns, a generous garnish of crunchy fried lard. All combining to win us over.
Consider us believers. What an utterly superb rendition of wat dan hor or Cantonese rice noodles in egg gravy. It’s the best we have had and we keep coming back for more, even if sometimes years pass before we can return for another helping.
There are no certainties in life. The past couple of years have taught us that, if little else.
But this humongous plate of wat dan hor is as luxurious as ever, each slurp bringing us closer to a little piece of heaven on earth.
Slippery strands of flat rice noodles (left). Crispy and silken Fried Tofu (right).That is, if heaven was a nondescript neighbourhood in Johor Baru.
Why were we down south? A post Chinese New Year weekend getaway, to catch up with old friends. To have our favourite chee cheong fun at the morning market in Taman Pelangi, to sip on the best coffee in town at Sweet Blossom Coffee Roasters not far away along Jalan Maju.
The chee cheong fun uncle told us that they stopped their evening stall at the open carpark opposite the road; not enough business. Instead they just extended their operating hours for their morning stall. Times are hard.
Ang Yeesiang, the barista owner of Sweet Blossom Coffee Roasters, shared that he’d be focusing more on roasting coffee nowadays, to make up for the drop in walk-in customers at the café. Times are hard so everyone is adapting as best they can.
Green Bean Floss – crispy stir-fried French beans topped with deep-fried shredded 'kai lan', dried anchovies, and dried squid.Still, it was good to see familiar faces and to see them healthy and well. Next up was dinner with a former colleague, who had promised us the best mee rebus in all of JB. But then a family emergency came up so she had to take a rain check.
Which left us with no plans for dinner. Where to go, what to have?
Unexpected circumstances like these can be a blessing in disguise. Here was a chance to revisit an old favourite we had missed all these years. We head over to Taman Melodies, just off the busy Jalan Tebrau.
Located at the corner of a row of shophouses was Tapai Tang, a Chinese restaurant that we could always depend on for a good meal, even late into the evening as they open till late.
Creamy and sweet Salad Prawns (left) and crunchy Nestum Prawns (right).Tapai Tang (pronounced as Dàpái Dàng in Mandarin) might be a JB culinary landmark (at least for regulars) but its founder Lee Kee Peng is originally from Teluk Intan. Which is why we can order in Cantonese, which is an endearing benefit of dining here. It is the little things that count.
We adore Chef Lee’s wat dan hor, of course. That much is clear. But we needed more dishes to complete our meal. One cannot sup on wat dan hor alone (though I might be convinced to try, happily so).
Playing it safe, we went with the restaurant's menu highlights (it’s often what we order anyway). The textural contrast of the Fried Tofu – crispy outside and silken soft inside – would appeal to both young and old.
For vegetables, we eschewed more leafy greens (having had some, after a fashion, in the wat dan hor) and decided on an order of their Green Bean Floss. Here the crispy stir-fried French beans are further boosted with deep-fried shredded kai lan. This creative garnish is the “green floss” in its name. A smattering of moreish dried anchovies and dried squid completes the dish.
Tapai Tang’s signature salt baked chicken is available steamed or deep-fried.Prawns are another safe bet at Tapai Tang. Their extra creamy Salad Prawns (Sānwèi Xiā or “Three-Flavour-Prawns” in Mandarin) gets an umami punch from a trio of mayonnaise, salad dressing and sweet corn. For some crunch, go for their Nestum Prawns, buttery and fragrant.
Of course, we had to save the best for last: Tapai Tang’s signature yim gok gai (salt baked kampung chicken), which is available steamed or deep-fried. Have it moist or have it crispy.
We prefer the former method – marinated in Chinese herbs, the chicken is then wrapped in parchment paper and encased in coarse rock salt. After a good hour of baking, what arrives at your table will be juicy, not too salty and naturally sweet.
Don’t miss out on the accompanying chilli sauce that goes with the salt baked chicken. It’s fiery, for sure, but you just can’t stop dipping the chicken in it; the chilli sauce is so addictive!
The fiery chilli dip that goes with the salt baked chicken is so addictive!What a wonderful meal! How satisfying and how nostalgic. A perfect dinner to end our little getaway. Tapai Tang is truly an unsung gourmand’s paradise in JB.
Later, when we had returned to KL, Yeesiang texted and reminded me we have known each other for the better part of a decade. Back when he was still a junior barista learning the ropes in KL; now he is married and a father to two beautiful young children.
How time passes! He agreed, noting that we get older but the bond of friendship only gets stronger.
Life goes on. Things change all the time. There are no certainties – but there are some things that feel as though they remain much the same. Like oh-so-smooth strands of wat dan hor begging to be slurped whilst hot, like yim gok gai dipped in fiery chilli sauce that will have you tearing up but continuing regardless.
For those are tears of joy, of elation. That some things – the good things in life, really – do last.
大排檔 Restoran Ta Pai Tang
128, Jalan Chengai, Taman Melodies, Johor Bahru
Open daily 10am till late
Tel: 07-333-3662