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Forget once in a lifetime, as upcycling gets more wear out of bridal attire
Upcycling is a technique that is increasingly being embraced by the bridal fashion industry. ― Shutterstock pic
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MEXICO CITY, April 5 ― Forget single-use wedding dresses, as upcycling and its many benefits for the planet are shaking up the sector. Just like the ready-to-wear and luxury industries, the bridal business is slowly but surely experimenting with the potential of this practice to try to extend the life of one of the least-used pieces in anyone's wardrobe.
For several months, fashion brands have been launching 'sustainable' collections based on upcycling. This essentially involves bringing added value to unused materials and objects, or those destined for the trash. Upcycling allows the fashion industry to reuse fabric scraps and other materials, as well as old stock ― and even football jerseys ― to create stylish fashion creations, reducing waste in the process.
This is the process that Nadia Manjarrez Studio Bridal has embraced. Founded by designer Nadia Manjarrez, the Mexico-based studio draws inspiration from kintsugi, a Japanese technique that seeks to repair broken porcelain or ceramics by making them even more beautiful. A lesson in ancestral upcycling, in short, that she applies as a way of life. The designer, who previously worked at Badgley Mischka and Marchesa, founded her studio following her father's death from Covid, and the desire to embark on a new, meaningful adventure.
“Kintsugi is the Japanese art of repairing porcelain with metal, often gold or silver. The broken pieces are thought to be more beautiful for having been broken. After losing my dad from Covid, it felt like the perfect representation of life imitating art. As I picked up the broken pieces, I poured everything into creating something beautiful,” the designer explains on the studio website. It is an art form that she has also put to use in her collections, which give pride of place to what could be called 'convertible' dresses, since they can be easily turned from wedding dresses into evening wear or even everyday styles.
Styles that can be easily converted
Through her first two collections, Nadia Manjarrez set out to create versatile, modular dresses that could be transformed into more casual outfits in the blink of an eye ― or almost. The initiative, which translates into the presence of various detachable features ― trains, skirts, capes, sleeves ― offers brides the possibility to transform their outfit between the ceremony and the reception (and therefore not have to buy several), while also allowing the wedding dress to be worn again, after the big day. It's a minor revolution in the world of bridal fashion. Handmade in the brand's workshop based in Culiacán, the pieces are fully customisable, and favour recycled materials.
An approach that's taking off
If bridal fashion has been slow to embrace more responsible practices ― such as recycling, upcycling, or the use of sustainable materials ― it is now making every effort to catch up. It's true that many people consider a wedding gown to be 'the dress of a lifetime,' which should in essence be unique, and made especially for the occasion. However, faced with growing consumer demand, industry players are gradually moving in to fill an upcycling-shaped gap in the market.
Early this year, Pronovias stood out from the crowd by proposing its “Second Life” service. From now on, the Catalan company offers its customers a whole collection of bridal styles that can be easily converted. Brides-to-be have a wide choice of dresses ― more than 50 to date ― designed to be transformed into more 'classic' clothes after the event. And if you don't want to wear it to work the week after the big day, it can be given a second life for parties or special occasions.
To take advantage of the service, simply choose one of the models proposed by Pronovias, then have it altered for free after the wedding. It's an initiative that allows the bride-to-be to invest in a dress that will not spend the rest of its life hidden away in a bag hanging in a closet.
Giving old fabrics a new lease of life
In a different style, the Lorafolk brand has joined forces with the French online classifieds website Leboncoin to offer a capsule of upcycled wedding dresses. Designer Laura Foulquier embarked on a treasure hunt on the platform to find the fabrics for this mini-collection, starting for the first time not from a sketch but from the raw material itself. Antique linens, lace, doilies, hand-embroidered handkerchiefs, plumetis fabrics, petticoats and crochet yokes have all been reused as part of this project, giving life to a collection that's sure to make brides stand out in style on their big day.
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“The challenge was enormous, but thoroughly exciting. I have always loved vintage linens and beautiful embroidery. This collaboration with Leboncoin on the theme of salvage and reuse was the perfect opportunity to find forgotten treasures and give them a new life by embellishing them,” says the designer. In total, seven unique designs were created for Leboncoin. All made from start to finish by a single craftsperson in the heart of Paris.
Offered in sizes ranging from 36 to 40, the six dresses and the skirt set will be available from April on Leboncoin, priced between €820 (RM3,794) and €990. These long and short models, combining upcycling with artisanal expertise, can then also be worn on other occasions. And, to top it all off, proceeds from the sale of these bridal creations will be donated to the Fondation des Femmes women's rights organization.
The proliferation of initiatives by numerous players in the sector appears to confirm consumers' growing interest in more responsible ― and sustainable ― fashion, even in the wedding dress segment, which is coveted for its unique and ultra-personalised character. But now, it seems like bridal fashion is ready to reinvent itself for the benefit of the planet. ― ETX Studio